– Roses prefer a position in FULL SUNLIGHT and do not flower as well in shade.
– Roses need WELL DRAINED SOIL and do not like wet feet. If they lack oxygen to the roots, they may not survive.
– If you can, prepare the soil 2-3 months in advance with a mixture of MANURE and compost. Use either cow, horse, or chicken mature manure, or a manure-based pelleted fertilizer. These pelleted brands have been highly recommended by our customers: Richgrow Black Marvel Rose & Flower Food, and Rooster Booster Organic Plant Food and Neutrog’s Sudden Impact for Roses.
– COMPOST mixed through the soil, along with manure, will help in achieving optimal results. A vegetable garden-type soil, rich with nutrients, with a SOIL PH OF 6.5, is ideal for roses. Mushroom or similar type is recommended.
– MULCHING retains the moisture in the soil, which reduces stress on the plant, and encourages growth. Sugar cane mulch, or lucerne hay, are particularly good as they give nitrogen to the soil; avoid eucalyptus and pine based mulch as they are antiseptics which can do more damage than good.
– Before PLANTING POTTED roses into the garden, till the soil about 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Dig a hole the same size as the pot and transfer the rose into the ground, keeping the soil intact, without disturbing the roots. Keep the roots moist during transplantation and, do not put any fertilizer on the roots; as this may burn them.
– PLANTING BARE-ROOTED roses can be done safely during the winter season, provided that the roots have been kept moist during this process. The above mentioned soil preparation is recommended, and do not put fertilizer on the roots.
– The larger a container is, the better, when PLANTING IN A CONTAINER; as there is less chance of drying out, and the roots can get more energy from the soil. A large number of drainage holes is desirable, to ensure good drainage, and having a layer of scoria pebbles at the base of the pot can assist with this. Using a mixture of compost and manure; as mention before, with a general potting mix is recommended, being careful not to get the roots exposed directly with the compost-manure mix, as it may be too strong. Use the general potting mix around the root area. It is advisable to replenish the soil after 3 years; for a medium pot, and around 4-6 years for larger pot. Watering roses in pots will have to be done more frequently than roses planted in the garden, and a regular feeding will also be needed.
– You can apply SEASOL at the planting stage to encourage growth, but DO NOT FERTILIZE when planting as this may burn the roots. You can fertilize your roses 6-8 weeks after planting or wait until September; the start of the growing season.
– WATER the newly planted rose several times once planted and continue watering 2-3 times per week during the summer months; more if weather is very hot. During the first week of planting, water once a day, during the second week, water every second day; then ease off to 2-3 days. Plants in pots need watering more regularly during the growing season; every 1-2 days.
– FERTILISING is advisable, using either mature manure; applied liberally 2-3 times a season; or a N.P.K. based rose fertilizer (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium & Potash), according to instructions. Usually the first application is in September, then in eight-week intervals until the end of Autumn.
– Using Potash, Ag Lime, Pelleted Manure, Mushroom Compost, Blood & Bone or spraying with Seasol is also recommended as options.
– Spraying for APHIDS and other insects is recommended when seen on roses. We recommend Mavrik applied every 10-12 days until no longer seen. You can try a home brew of tabasco sauce or garlic mixed with water as an alternative.
– Spraying for BLACKSPOT is a commitment for the season; usually August to May, and is a partial preventative, not a cure. We prefer to encourage healthy gardening practices then a chemical spray program.
– If you choose to spray for blackspot, we recommend using Triforine, Baycor, or a Eco-Fungicide by Eco Organics. Or a combination of two applied alternately every 10-12 days, on a dry day, during the flowering season. Be aware that you may go through the effort of spraying and still may get some blackspot; therefore, pruning after every flush will take away a large amount of affected leaves.
– Spray for MILDEW if needed at the beginning and end of the season using Mancozeb, applied according to instructions; or a home brew of milk & water as this provides calcium to strengthen rose.
– Spray for SCALE if needed using Pyrethrum, or a home-brew mix combination of Bi-carbonate Soda and White Oil. You can also use diluted dishwashing liquid in warm water and brush off scale with a toothbrush.
– PRUNE AFTER EVERY FLUSH of blooms, during the flowering season, as this encourages a better shape, and avoids energy going to older unwanted stems. Within three weeks of summer pruning, the foliage will rejuvenate and there will be clean blackspot free leaves. Generally speaking, the harder you prune a rose, the better it turns out. Refer to our calendar below as to when to prune.
– PRUNE BUSH ROSES 12-15cm from the graft, or about 2/3rds off younger rose plants; older roses may not have as much sap flow, therefore a lighter prune is recommended; about 1/3 – 1/2 off. Create an open vase shape pruning off deadwood, 1/3 of the older branches, and thin twiggy branches; aiming to get to 2/3rds off after a few prunes
– PRUNE CLIMBERS by taking 2/3rds off horizontal branches; leaving main vertical branches, during the growing season; and then in the winter season, hard prune horizontal branches to 1 inch from vertical branches
– DE-HEADING roses by selecting branches which have finished blooming and pruning them back by 2/3rds. This is different to a hard pruning where all branches are pruned back by about 2/3rds
– After the winter prune and whilst plant is dormant, you can spray with a LIME SULPHUR spray. This will help with control of fungal issues such as Blackspot, Powdery Mildew and Rust.
How to rejuvenate stressed roses from de-foliation or other problems.
There are many reasons why a rose may under-perform during the growing season, but what we want to achieve is to rejuvenate it. Just because it has defoliated doesn’t mean that it can’t be saved.
We suggest the following general procedures:
Prune the rose back to about 15cm from graft on a young plant, and about half way to two-thirds off on an older plant. You aim to get to the two-thirds off stage after a few prunes.
Fertilize with a NPK based rose fertilizer, or manure and compost mixture; add mulch.
Make sure it gets watered thoroughly 2-3 times a week (depending on weather).
Wait 4-6 weeks to see what’s happening.
Reasons why they go through de-foliation and other problems.
The rose may have required more water when initially planted, or lack of water during the growing season, therefore dropping and getting yellow leaves.
There may be some substance in the soil which the rose doesn’t like ie: fertilizer on the roots, or strong substance in the soil.
The rose may be suffering from black-spot, powdery mildew, rust, scale or leaf chewing insects.
The soil may have poor drainage and therefore water-logging the roots.
The rose may be lacking nutrients and needs fertilizing.
The soil may be below 6 Ph or above 7 Ph and needs adjusting.
PROBLEM SOLVING
If you suspect BLACKSPOT to be the case it is already too late to spray. The rose will loose some of the affected foliage and look unappealing. However, you can prune rose back to a winter-prune, removing affected foliage. When new foliage re-appears; usually after 3 weeks, it is clear of blackspot. You can begin spraying every 10-12 days on a dry day, during the growing season, with a black-spot spray ie: Eco-Fungicide, Baycor or Triforine or alternating either of these. These sprays act as a part-prevention, not a cure and depending on the amount of rainfall and humidity, the rose may still be affected by black-spot even if a spray routine is followed. However, we prefer to recommend healthy garden practices before choosing the spraying method. This involves watering, pruning, feeding and mulching to get good vigorous plants; therefore less susceptible to health issues.
If you suspect POWDERY MILDEW or RUST to be the case, spray every 10-12 days on a dry day, until problem is solved, with a spore spray ie: Mancozeb.
If you suspect APHIDS or OTHER INSECTS to be the case, spray every 10-12 days on a dry day, until problem is solved, with an insect spray ie: Mavrik.
If you suspect SCALE to be the case, you can use warm water with dishwashing liquid and scrub affected areas with a toothbrush, or you can apply a Pyrethrum spray to affected areas according to instructions.
If you have issues with POSSUMS, KANGAROOS or ROSELLAS chewing your roses, good news! We are currently trialing a chilli spray and will keep you updated with our results.
If you are concerned about DIEBACK, apply lime-sulphur spray after winter prune and sterilize secateurs regularly. Some varieties of roses are more prone to dieback
If the SOIL DRAINAGE is poor, wait until winter to dig the rose out and thoroughly prepare soil for re-planting. Mix gypsum through the soil and surrounding area. If the soil is water-logged, then proper drainage pipes or water diversion is required.
If you have SANDY SOIL, composting and manure are needed to build up the nutrients.
Ultimately, a 6.5Ph SOIL level will be best. If the Ph is below 6, add 2-3 hand-fulls of Ag Lime to soil surrounding the rose. If Ph is above 7, it needs reducing by adding (some of) the following: manure, compost, sphagnum peat, elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate.
ORGANIC SPRAYS
Black Spot: Mix 1 ½ teaspoons of bi-carbonate soda and 11/2 teaspoons of white oil in a little hot water to dissolve. Add to 2 liters of water.
Aphid: Mix crushed garlic or tabasco sauce with a little warm water to dilute. Filter and into sprayer and add water.
Scale: Mix dishwashing liquid with water and use a toothbrush to brush off affected area
Mildew: Mix 1 part organic milk with 10 parts water in sprayer
| JANUARY | Hard prune roses by about 2/3rds, depending on type of rose and amount of foliage; fertilize 3 weeks after prune with instant rose fertilizer or a pelleted fertilizer; top up with mulch if necessary |
| FEBRUARY | De-head spent flowers and hard prune roses that have finished blooming |
| MARCH | Fertilize with either instant rose fertilizer or a pelleted fertilizer and de-head spent flowers |
| APRIL | De-head spent flowers |
| MAY | De-head spent flowers |
| JUNE | De-head spent flowers |
| JULY | Hard prune roses by about 2/3rds; take out deadwood and spindly branches and thin out congested branches by 1/3rd. Apply a spray of Lime Sulphur |
| AUGUST | Apply a pelleted fertilizer and mulch with organic lucerne hay or sugar cane mulch |
| SEPTEMBER | Fertilize with instant rose fertilizer. Start black-spot spraying regime (if you desire), or stick to healthy gardening practices of regular pruning and fertilizing; check for aphids and spray if required |
| OCTOBER | Check for aphids and spray if required; de-head spent flowers |
| NOVEMBER | Fertilize with either instant rose fertilizer or pelleted fertilizer and de-head spent flowers |
| DECEMBER | Hard prune roses by 1/2 to 2/3rds depending on type of rose and amount of foliage |
Rose Pruning, Budding and General Care & Maintenance Workshops can be arranged for groups of over 10 people.